Project

The goal

The Snow Leopard Award is a Soviet prize that is still recognized today and is awarded to climbers who successfully climb the 5 peaks over 7,000 meters of the former Soviet Union.

Solidarity

In addition, there are another objective, in this case of solidarity, which consists of writing a book based on the experience and moments lived during this project and donate the benefits to organizations that try to help in disadvantaged areas like rural regions of the Himalayas.

The keys

  • In a single season, that includes the months of July to September in the shortest possible time.
  • In alpine style, climbing is practiced in a self-sufficient way, the climber transports everything necessary while ascending.
  • Without fixed ropes, it means not to use ropes that have been placed previously.
  • Without supplemental oxygen, it means not supplementing the lack of oxygen in the air that is given at high altitude with bottled oxygen.
  • By the classic routes, because they are routes that by their characteristics perfectly represent the climbing of the mountain, they are usually first openings or routes with very clear lines

Milestones

  • Peak Pobeda is comparable in difficulty to some mountains of more than 8,000 m.
  • Peak Pobeda is considered one of the coldest mountains on the earth.
  • Peak Khan Tengri is the nearest mountain to the north pole of a height greater than 7,000 m.
  • The Medzmarishvili route has one of the longest traverses at an altitude of more than 7,000 m with a length of more than 5 km.
  • The cumulative positive slope of the project exceeds 15,000 m.

The peaks

Peak Region Country Elevation Coordinates
Lenin
Ibn Sina
Avicenna Peak
Pamir
Trans-Alay
Kyrgyzstan
Tajikistan
7,134 m
23,406 ft
39.34690°N
72.86920°E
Korzhenevskaya
Korzhenevsky
Korzhenevskoy
Pamir
Academy of Sciences
Tajikistan 7,105 m
23,310 ft
39.06550°N
72.00080°E
Ismail Somoni
Kommunizma
Stalin Peak
Pamir
Academy of Sciences
Tajikistan 7,495 m
24,590 ft
38.94620°N
72.01990°E
Khan Tengri
Hantengri Peak
Central Tian Shan Kyrgyzstan 7,010 m
22,998 ft
42.21145°N
80.17479°E
Pobeda
Jengish Chokusu
Victory Peak
Central Tian Shan
Kakshaal Too
Kyrgyzstan
China
7,439 m
24,406 ft
42.03578°N
80.12921°E

Below is a map with the exact location of each of the peaks.



The routes

To know how the Russian system works to measure the degree or level of difficulty of a mountain click here.

Peak Face Route Grade Base Camp Slope
Lenin Northeast ridge Razdelnaya 5A Onion Field
3,750 m
3,384 m
Korzhenevskaya South ridge Tsetlin 5A Moskvina Glades
4,200 m
2,905 m
Ismail Somoni North Face Borodkin 5A Moskvina Glades
4,200 m
3,295 m
Khan Tengri South Face Progrebietsky 5A South Inylchek glacier
4,050 m
2,960 m
Pobeda North Face Medzmarishvili 5B South Inylchek glacier
4,050 m
3,389 m

The equipment

Here is a list of the equipment that we consider necessary to carry out the project, the weight is fundamental so it is important not to exceed 25 kg of weight per person, the models are only representative so the final list of equipment used will be confirmed soon.

Quantity Category Equipment Model Weight
1 Alojamiento Tienda Mountain Hardwear EV2 2.355 gr
1 Rest Sleeping bag RAB Expedition 1000 1.625 gr
1 Rest Sleeping pad Thermarest Z Lite 410 gr
1 Rest Headlamp Black Diamond Icon 232 gr
1 Rest Solar changer Anker PowerPort Solar 417 gr
1 Carry Backpack Osprey Aether AG70 2.330 gr
1 Food Swiss knife Victorinox Sentinel 71 gr
1 Food Stove Coleman F1 Ultralight 77 gr
1 Food Saucepan Set of 3 pieces 350 gr
1 Food Cutlery Biwak Treeking 120 gr
1 Food Thermo Acero Inox 1 lt. 560 gr
1 Rigid Harness Petzl Corax 490 gr
4 Rigid Carabiners Tipo HMS 240 gr.
1 Rigid Ascenders Petzl Ascension 165 gr
2 Rigid Descenders Petzl Reverso 4
Black Diamond Super 8
59 gr
89 gr
1 Rigid Crampons Petzl Sarken 840 gr
1 Rigid Ice axes Black Diamond Venom Adze 574 gr
1 Rigid Poles Black Diamond Trail 489 gr
2 Rigid Ice screws Black Diamond Express 16 cm
Black Diamond Express 19 cm
145 gr
159 gr
1 Rigid Shovel Camp Snow Crest 250 gr
1 Non rigid Rope Beal Cobra II 8,6 mm 60 m 2.880 gr
1 Non rigid Cordage 10m de 5 mm 180 gr
1 Clothes – Feet Trekking boots Garmont Pinacle 1.716 gr
1 Clothes – Feet Expedición boots La Sportiva G2SM 1.024 gr
1 Clothes – Feet Gaiter Black Diamond Frontpoint GTX 251 gr
3 Clothes – Feet Socks Lorpen T3 Heavy Trekker (2)
Lorpen T3 Inferno Expedition
450 gr
1 Clothes – Hands Gloves Mammut Expert Tour 240 gr
1 Clothes – Hands Mitts Arc’teryx Alpha SV 260 gr
1 Clothes – Head Balaclava Haglöfs Windstopper 45 gr
1 Clothes – Head Hat Buff Windproof 42 gr
1 Clothes – Head Neckwarmer Buff Windproof 90 gr
2 Clothes – Body 1 layer Smartwool Merino 250 1.300 gr
1 Clothes – Body 2 layer Arc’teryx Cerium SV 415 gr
1 Clothes – Body 3 layer Arc’teryx Beta SV 485 gr
1 Clothes – Body 3 layer RAB Expedition Jacket
RAB Expedition Saloppetes
1.340 gr
850 gr
1 Protection Helmet Grivel Salamander 385 gr
1 Protection Sunglasses Julbo Montebianco Camaleon 118 gr
1 Protection Solar protector Stick SPF 50 15 gr
Feeding and hygiene 2.000 gr
First Aid Kit 300 gr
1 Photography Pentax Body K-70 688 gr
1 Photography Sigma 15-50mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM 565 gr
1 Photography Pentax Battery D-LI109 57 gr
1 Photography Lowepro Adventura SH 120 II 300 gr
1 Photography Hoya HD Filter UV 50 gr
1 Photography Sandisk Extreme Pro SDXC C10 128 Gb 20 gr

The planning

This planning is temporary and could be modified during the project depending on the needs or contingencies that may appear, for that reason need to be taken as an approximation made according to the days of acclimatization, those planned for the climbing of each one of the peaks plus a week of reserve.

Day Description
1 BCN – Bixkek (Kirguistán) – Onion Field BC (3,750 m)
2 Acclimatization day
3 Acclimatization day
4 Acclimatization day
5 Acclimatization day
6 Acclimatization day
7 Onion Field BC (3,750 m) – C1 (4,400 m)
8 C1 (4,400 m) – C2 (5,370 m)
9 C2 (5,370 m) – C3 (6,100 m)
10 C3 (6,100 m) – Summit Lenin (7,134 m) – C3 (6,100 m)
11 C3 (6,100 m) – C1 (4,400 m)
12 C1 (4,400 m) – Onion Field BC (3,750 m)
13 Onion Field BC (3,750 m) – Moskvina Glades BC (4,200 m)
14 Rest day
15 Moskvina Glades BC (4,200 m) – C1 (5,300 m)
16 C1 (5,300 m) – C2 (5,800 m)
17 C2 (5,800 m) – C3 (6,400 m)
18 C3 (6,400 m) – Summit Korzhenevskaya (7,105 m) – C3 (6,400 m)
19 C3 (6,400 m) – C1 (5,300 m)
20 C1 (5,300 m) – Moskvina Glades BC (4,200 m)
21 Rest day
22 Moskvina Glades BC (4,200 m) – C1 (5,100 m)
23 C1 (5,100 m) – C2 (6,000 m)
24 C2 (6,000 m) – C3 (6,900 m)
25 C3 (6,900 m) – Summit Ismail Somoni (7,495 m) – C3 (6,900 m)
26 C3 (6,900 m) – C1 (5,100 m)
27 C1 (5,100 m) – Moskvina Glades BC (4,200 m)
28 Moskvina Glades BC (4,200 m) – South Inylchek glacier BC (4,050 m)
29 Rest day
30 Rest day
31 South Inylchek glacier BC (4,050 m) – C1 (4,100 m)
32 C1 (4,100 m) – C2 (5,200 m)
33 C2 (5,200 m) – C3 (5,900 m)
34 C3 (5,900 m) – C4 (6,400 m)
35 C4 (6,400 m) – Summit Khan Tengri (7,010 m) – C3 (5,900 m)
36 C3 (5,900 m) – C1 (4,100 m)
37 C1 (4,100 m) – South Inylchek glacier BC (4,050 m)
38 Rest day
39 Rest day
40 South Inylchek glacier BC (4,050 m) – C1 (5,800 m)
41 C1 (5,800 m) – C2 (6,900 m)
42 C2 (6,900 m) – C3 (7,000 m)
43 C3 (7,000 m) – Summit Pobeda (7,439 m) – C3 (7,000 m)
44 C3 (7,000 m) – C2 (6,900 m)
45 C2 (6,900 m) – C1 (5,800 m)
46 C1 (5,800 m) – South Inylchek glacier BC (4,050 m)
47 South Inylchek glacier BC (4,050 m) – Bixkek (Kirguistán) – BCN
48 Reserve day
49 Reserve day
50 Reserve day
51 Reserve day
52 Reserve day
53 Reserve day
54 Reserve day